Heather Crop Crossover Hem Hack By Angie Winans

Pattern used: Heather

Does anyone else out there love tried and true patterns but always imagine what else they could become? That's totally me. I'm always dreaming up ways to get new life out of my favorite patterns. And after making lots of Heathers (a top, crop top, or dress from Wild Seeds Patterns), I started thinking of ways to change it up!

I'd been wanting to try a crossover hem for a while, so I did a quick Google search for ideas and scrolled to a cute crossover hem crop with sleeves almost identical to the gathered sleeves on Heather...it was all the inspiration I needed!

My daughter loved the idea too, so I got to work modifying the Heather crop and put together a post that walks you all through this little hack!

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 289637415_1682985442057087_2208225398327893176_n.jpg
*Gorgeous rib knit and stretch velour from Threadbear Textiles*

Beginning Notes...

*Use the Heather Crop Top option, adjust the paper pattern pieces and then use those modified pieces to cut your fabric. Or (if you're impatient like me) you may cut your fabric pattern pieces and then make the adjustments directly to them.*

*Trace the other side of the bodice pattern before making the adjustments.* 

*If you are making the t-shirt neckband rather than the turtleneck, simply change the height of the neckband pattern piece to 2" (5cm).*

*If using a directional print fabric, double check the direction of your hem bands before sewing.*

Crossover Hem

PREPARING THE FRONT BODICE

On both sides of the front bodice, measure 3" (7.5cm) and 1" (2.5cm) and up from the bottom raw edge and mark.

*NOTE: You may choose to make your crop top longer or shorter.

  • The upper marks on your front bodice should be 2" (5cm) above the lower marks.
  • The lower marks on the front bodice simply need to align with the amount you're cutting off the back bodice.
  • For example, to make a your top 1" (2.5cm) shorter, make your marks at 4" (10cm)  and 2" (4cm) from the bottom of the front bodice, and trim 2" (5cm) from the back bodice.*

Lay a ruler or straight edge diagonally across the bodice, connecting the 3" (7.5cm) mark from one side with the 1" (2.5cm) mark on the other, and draw a line.

Repeat with the other set of marks.

You should now have 2 diagonal lines that intersect along the center of the front bodice.

Measure one of your diagonals, and then multiply that number by 0.85. This number will be the width of your hem bands.

Use this measurement to cut 2 front hem bands:

4 3/4" (12.1cm) x the number you just calculated. 

(For thicker fabrics, you may use 6" (15.2cm) x the number you calculated.)

Cut along the upper portion of the diagonal lines you drew on your bodice, creating a slight point at the center of the bodice.

Cut a slit 3/8" (1cm)  into the point.

Attaching Front Hem Bands

*If using a directional print, be sure to situate your hem bands so the finished bands will display the print in the direction you want.*

Mark the center of your hem bands (top and bottom). 

With right sides together, align the top of one hem band with the bottom of the front bodice, making the corner overhang the side of the bodice by 3/8" (1cm), and pin.  

Align the center mark on the hem band with the nearest side of the center slit and pin.

Fill in with pins, if desired, and baste in place, being sure to back stitch at beginning and end.

*NOTE: You are only pinning and basting half of one hem band at this point.*

Lay your front bodice out flat with the hem band pulled down away from the bodice.

Starting at the shoulders, roll the bodice down.

Lay the rolled bodice onto the hem band, and then pull the long raw edge of the hem band up and over the rolled bodice.

Align long raw edges and pin to secure (one half will include both long raw edges of the hem band, with the bottom raw edge of the bodice sandwiched in-between, while the other half will include only the long raw edges of the hem band).

Carefully pin in place, enclosing the bodice inside (be careful to keep the rolled bodice away from your pins).

Sew along the full diagonal to attach.  *NOTE: Sew slowly, checking as you go to be sure your rolled bodice is not getting caught.*

Gently pull the bodice out of the hem band and lay flat.

Repeat all steps for Attaching Front Hem Bands on the opposite side of the front bodice, being sure to tuck the 1st hem band in with the bodice when you roll it. *NOTE: Sew slowly, checking as you go to be sure your rolled bodice is not getting caught.*

PREPARING THE BACK BODICE

Draw a line 1" (2.5cm) up from the bottom raw edge of the back bodice.

Cut along the line.

*See NOTE in first step of PREPARING THE FRONT BODICE if you wish to make your crop top longer or shorter.*

Measure the bottom edge of the back bodice, and then multiply that number by 0.85. This number will be the width of your back hem band.

Use this measurement to cut 1 back hem band:

4 3/4" (2.1cm) x the number you just calculated.

NOTE: If using the larger 6" (15.2cm) hem band size for the front bodice, you will want to do the same for the back

*If using a directional print, be sure to situate your hem band so the finished band will display the print in the direction you want.*

Lay the hem band on top of the back bodice, right sides together, aligning the raw edges.

Pin to secure and baste stitch to attach.

Similar to the front bodice, lay the back bodice out flat with the hem band pulled down away from the bodice.

Starting at the shoulders, roll the bodice down and lay the rolled bodice onto the hem band.

Pull the long raw edge of the hem band up and over the rolled bodice.

Align the long raw edges and pin to secure.   The bottom raw edge of the back bodice will be sandwiched in-between the long raw edges of the hem band all the way across.  (Be careful to keep the rolled bodice away from your pins.)  

Sew to attach.  *NOTE: Sew slowly, checking as you go to be sure your rolled bodice is not getting caught in your seam.*

Gently pull the bodice out of the hem band and lay flat.

Your front and back bodices are ready to go!

CREATING THE BODICE

Lay the front and back bodice right sides together.

Align shoulders, pin, and sew shoulder seams.

*NOTE: Make sure your hem bands are crossed how you want them before continuing, as the finished back band will be covered a bit by the front band.*

At the bottom of the bodice, align the corners of the front and back bodice and pin.

Repeat on opposite side.

NOTE: It is also helpful to align the sides and place a pin or two between the bottom of the armscye and the top of the upper front hem band.

*The other side will be the opposite, with the lower hem band laying underneath the edge of the upper hem band.*

The end of the upper portion of each front hem band should be placed so it covers the seam from the back hem band, and will slightly overlap OR lay underneath the lower portion of each hem band...

  • On the side with the band that will cross in front (on your finished Heather) the edge of the upper hem band will need to lay underneath the lower portion of the other hem band (as shown in the picture above).
  • On the other side, you will need to do the exact opposite. The band that will cross in back (on your finished Heather) will need to overlap the lower portion of the other hem band.

Pin in place and carefully sew the length of both side seams. Trim the excess the narrow band will have about 3/8" (1cm) and the larger about an 1" (2.5cm) 

*NOTE: You may want to hand baste the overlapped area prior to sewing the seam, or hand crank as you sew over that section to be sure everything stays in place. Using a hammer to flatten the overlapped section can also be helpful.*

Turn right side out and attach sleeves and neck band according to the Heather Tutorial!

Thanks for reading and Happy Sewing!

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